I designed a hybrid à la carte menu so you can pick exactly the services you want and or what your vehicle needs—nothing more, nothing less.

Why? Because most “packages” force you to pay for steps your vehicle doesn’t need. If only half the package applies, you shouldn’t foot the full bill.

That’s why I made the menu simple and straightforward. Some services—like Blowout, Vacuum & Wipe-Down—are bundled together because they naturally go hand-in-hand; when one is needed, the others usually are too.

My goal: zero confusion, zero side-by-side package comparisons. Just check the boxes, get what you need, and be on your way.

I offer a leather coating rather than a traditional leather conditioning—because for most modern vehicles, conditioning is a waste of money. Here’s why:

Starting in the mid-1990s and fully by the early 2000s, automakers began applying a durable plastic-based topcoat to leather seating surfaces at the factory. This protective layer makes standard leather conditioners largely ineffective—they can’t penetrate and nourish the hide beneath.

Exceptions include:

• Classic or pre-1990s vehicles

• Custom-built interiors

• 2007-and-earlier Ford King Ranch editions

• Some high-end luxury cars, which use a thinner factory coating for a softer, more natural leather feel

Instead of conditioning, I apply a specialized leather coating. This adds a sacrificial top layer that shields the factory finish from UV rays, spills, abrasives, and daily wear—extending the life and appearance of your seats far more effectively.

I choose only the best-performing products, proven through rigorous testing—regardless of price.I refuse to cut corners with high-volume, low-cost car wash items that could damage your vehicle or push ineffective “snake oil” just to boost profits. As technology advances, so do detailing products, and my selections will evolve accordingly.

Water supply: it depends. I carry 100 gallons of spotless, filtered water on my truck—enough for 2 full-size trucks or SUVs. I give the option of using your water supply (still filtered through my system for a spotless finish) and apply a $10 discount. Sometimes it is not needed, but I rather have water left over, than run out.

Electricity: My onboard generator powers all equipment and runs quietly (truck idle) to avoid disturbing neighbors.

Ceramic coating isn’t a one-size-fits-all upgrade. I’ll never call it a bad idea—but it only makes sense if it fits your habits.

Think of it like a nonstick pan:

✅ Hydrophobic – water beads and rolls off

✅ Easier to clean – dirt wipes away with less effort

✅ Low maintenance – just regular hand washing

But it’s not a force field:

❌ Still vulnerable to scratches, rock chips, and water spots

❌ Destroyed by automatic car washes (harsh chemicals + abrasive brushes = ruined coating and clear coat)

Skip it if:

• You only wash your car the day you buy it and the day you sell it

• You’re loyal to drive-through car washes

Go for it if:

• You hand-wash properly (or hire a pro like me) on a regular schedule

Bottom line: ceramic shines when you commit to caring for it.